Dear Global Leather Industry Colleagues,

 I want to draw your attention to the attached infographic that the Leather and Hide Council of America (LHCA) intends to send out and post on social media channels later today. We will accompany it with a press release that provides additional information about the industry and basic facts about the association. Using a new media tool we recently acquired, we will be sending this infographic and press release to a significant number of media contacts in fashion, footwear, sustainability and lifestyle media outlets. Currently, we have a target list of several hundred media outlets that will receive this information.

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Only two of Tanzania’s eight tanneries are now operating, as they are unable to make a profit on leather, according to specialist local press.

S&V Africa Leather quotes Niaz Hirani, head of leather at tannery operator Industrial Promotion Services, who said the situation is so bad that most hides are now being dried and sold to West Africa as food, a local delicacy.

Tanners in East Africa have warehouses of hides they are unable to process, and might soon have to sell them for less than they paid to liquidate stock, he added.

Source: https://leatherbiz.com

The authorities in Botswana have said construction will start soon on a new leather park at Lobatse and could be ready to start production within 18 months.

At a recent seminar on the project, Lesitamang Paya, who is co-ordinating work on the leather park for the local authority, said that Botswana’s current cattle population of 1.8 million head would be unable to supply the volume of hides the site will need to operate efficiently.

He said his calculations show that 75 tonnes of hides per day will be needed as raw material for the leather park to operate well. He called on livestock farmers in Botswana to improve their herd management, starting immediately, to supply the hides required.

Around 60% of the raw material the new leather park will process will be bovine hides, he explained, with exotic skins, including ostrich and crocodile, making up the rest.

Mr Paya added that the leather park is also likely to consume two million litres of water per day. He said the project’s solution to this was to build the park close to an existing water resource, a sewerage treatment facility close to Lobatse. He explained that the plan was to extract water from here, treat it and use it in leather production. Wastewater from tanning operations will then be used at a nearby farm.

In addition, there will be a dedicated, secure landfill site for disposing of solid waste from the park.

Source: https://leatherbiz.com/

Ethiopian footwear manufacturer Anbessa has emerged as the successful bidder in an auction to acquire a tannery in Bahir Dar, around 500 kilometres north of Addis Ababa.

The former Habesha tannery operated from 2011 until April 2019, making crust for export markets. When it ceased production, banks moved in and arranged the auction to recoup some of the money the previous owners owed.

Anbessa has said it plans to buy new machinery, to take production as far as finished leather, which it intends to use in its own footwear manufacturing operations. It also said it will build a new water treatment plant at the site.

After securing ownership of the tannery, Bamlaku Demissie, general manager of Anbessa, said: “We’ve been buying finished leather from the different tanneries. Now we’ll make our own.”

Source : https://leatherbiz.com

At the recent All China Leather Exhibition in Shanghai, secretary general of the China Leather Industry Association, Chen Zhanguang, announced new guidelines that the agency has distributed to member companies regarding the correct use of the English term ‘leather’.

“These are only guidelines and not yet law,” Mr Chen said, “and it will take time for regulation to come in. But the All China Leather Exhibition is the best place to start implementing this practice.”

https://leatherbiz.com

Turkish tanners, leather chemicals and tanning machinery manufacturers have built strong ties with partners in Africa.

Companies in Kenya, Uganda, Nigeria, Sudan and other parts of Africa have found willing buyers in Turkey of raw and semi-processed hides and skins.

In parallel, Turkish tanning machinery manufacturers and leather chemicals suppliers have been able to make sales among these African suppliers. “A new trading system is in operation,” industry commentators have said.

Source: https://leatherbiz.com

Traders from across Kenya have come together to call on the government to revise the 80% duty that is currently imposed on exports of raw hides and skins. They say that such a tariff on trade with other East African markets is damaging their businesses.

They made their case at the annual general meeting of the East Africa Hides and Skins Association. Following the meeting, chairperson Karuri Ngige said a more lenient tax system would open the sector to more tanneries and allow for existing ones to expand their markets.

She explained that the traders want tax to be calculated on the export value of local hides and skins, rather than on their total weight.

The Kenyan government implemented the high tax rate on raw hides and skins in an effort to encourage domestic value addition, although Ms Ngige argued that it has had little effect on the country’s leather value chain.

Source: https://leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=151847

ALLPI Receiving the IULTCS Flag for the Next IULTCS Congress 2021

Toscana Machine Calzature (TMC) and ItalProgetti have signed an agreement with prisons department to establish two leather factories in Moshi Region.

The two factories, one for shoe-making and another for tanneries, will be constructed on 25 acres of land at the industrial area within Karanga Prison.

Tanzania has been importing shoes and leather products while making little use of its livestock products.

Two Italian companies have entered Tanzania’s leather sector to take advantage of the large quantities of raw hides and skins produced every year in the country.

Toscana Machine Calzature (TMC) and ItalProgetti have signed an agreement with Prisons Department and the Public Service Social Security Fund to establish two leather factories in Moshi in Kilimanjaro Region.

The companies will invest $24.5 million to construct two leather factories to be managed jointly with Karanga Leather Industries Company Ltd in Karanga Prison.

The two factories, one for shoe-making and another for tanneries, will be constructed on 25 acres of land at the industrial area within Karanga Prison, and are set for completion in 16 months.
TMC sales manager Daniele Ferradini said the Italian companies will provide both finances and technology for production of quality leather products for export to Italy and other European countries. The plant is expected to produce 1.2 million pairs of shoes per year.

The Public Service Social Security Fund and the National Social Security Fund are also reviving leather factories in Morogoro Region with the Prisons Department.

Source: https://www.theeastafrican.co.ke/business/Italian-firms-to-invest-in-Tanzania-leather-sector/2560-4998766-v0vp9s/index.html

Ethiopian experts in the leather and footwear sector on Thursday hailed a Chinese-built research center, the first of its kind in Ethiopia, as an important boost to the country’s ambition in modernizing related products.

The Ethiopia-China Joint Laboratory at the Ethiopian Leather Industry Development Institute (LIDI) was built by a team of Chinese experts with high-end Chinese technologies from the Chinese Leather and Footwear Industrial Research Institute (CLFI).

The joint laboratory, which mainly embraced a tannery wastewater treatment plant, was designed to provide Ethiopian researchers with the latest laboratory technologies as the East African country aspires to fully exploit its abundant cattle population, LIDI officials told Xinhua on Thursday.

Source: http://www.xinhuanet.com/english/2019-04/04/c_137950764.htm

Chinese footwear group Huajian has signed a 15-year lease on an industrial park in Ethiopia, with buildings earmarked for shoe and leathergoods production.

Local press report that the Chinese conglomerate has ambitious plans for Jimma Industrial Park, which include setting up a coffee processing plant and creating 15,000 jobs.

The park is around 350km from the capital, and was constructed by China Communications Construction Company with an investment of $61 million, said reports.

Huajian already owns a large shoe manufacturing facility on the outskirts of Addis Ababa, and has also been in talks to set up factories in Nigeria.

Source: https://leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=151601

A meeting of the East African Community’s (EAC) Leather Forum has taken place in Arusha, Tanzania, during which there were calls for the bloc to create a more easily accessible market for leather products.

The forum was convened by the East African Business Council (EABC). It brought together leather industry figures from Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, South Sudan, Tanzania and Uganda.

Among the recommendations to come out of this meeting were the creation of a regional market for leather products and a more conducive business environment to promote local value addition in the leather sector. Those present also called for the implementation of a regional leather strategy to be fast-tracked.

The EAC Secretariat is in the process of developing a regional leather and leather products strategy, which would cover the period from 2019-2029.

Among the speakers at the forum was Beatrice Mwasi, secretary general of the Kenya Leather Apex Society, a new umbrella body launched in November. She urged the EAC leather industry to be more innovative and to improve branding. She also called for EAC partner states to offer incentives for value addition in the leather sector.

https://leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=151478

THE East African Community (EAC) Leather Forum has urged the bloc to create readily accessible market for leather products. The forum has called for EAC to fast track the implementation of Regional Leather Strategy.

The forum was convened by the East African Business Council (EABC) and brought together over 40 industry champions in leather manufacturing from Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, South Sudan, Tanzania and Uganda.

The forum has recommended for the creation of a readily accessible regional market for leather products and a conducive business environment to promote regional value addition in the leather sector. According to World Bank Kenya Leather Industry - Diagnosis, Strategy and Action Plan, Leather and Leather products are among the most widely traded agro-based commodities in the world.

The industry has a global estimated trade value of over US$ 150 billion a year, more than five times that of coffee.

Source: https://allafrica.com/stories/201905260019.html

The 2016 Tannery of the Year Awards took place in Hong Kong on March 30. A distinguished panel of five judges chose regional winners for Africa, Asia excluding China, the Americas, China and Europe and, from these, later named the global winner for this, the fifth programme of Tannery of the Year.

Regional winners were: White Nile Tannery from Sudan for Africa, Kings International from India for Asia excluding China, Couro do Norte from Brazil for the Americas, Dazhong Leather for China and Atlantic Leather from Iceland for Europe.

The winner of the Global Tannery of the Year award for 2016 was Couro do Norte.

World Leather congratulates all eight finalists who took part in the ceremony and, especially, Couro do Norte.

Source: http://leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=141189

 

Leather chemicals manufacturer Stahl has acquired the leather chemicals business of Mumbai-based Viswaat Chemicals. The Indian company manufactures specialty chemicals for a broad range of industries through, Stahl said on making the announcement “constant and innovative research and development, backed by a strong social conscience”.

Viswaat will now produce REACH-compliant syntans, fatliquors and beamhouse solutions for the leather industry exclusively for Stahl; the Dutch company said it believes the acquisition will enable it to strengthen its position in leather chemicals in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.

Stahl chief executive, Huub van Beijeren, said his company would now be able to serve its clients in the region better. He also said the acquisition is directly linked to the company’s commitments to creating a more transparent supply chain and improving its environmental footprint.

Source: http://leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=141324

Tanning group PrimeAsia is responding to demands from its customers for shorter lead-times by cutting the amount of time it takes to deliver “relevant core articles” by half.

Calling the initiative its Quick to Market (QTM) platform, PrimeAsia has said it can have articles and colours that feature in its catalogue in its warehouse for shipping 15 days after order confirmation.

Minimum order quantity is just 25 square-feet and no advanced forecast is required. However, if customers want the leather they order to have embossing, perforations or other special treatment, it will take longer.

“PrimeAsia’s QTM platform represents a new way to develop and quickly deliver trend-relevant leathers without sacrificing quality,” the group said on announcing the initiative. Its QTM Athletic Collection 2016 is already available to its sports and outdoor footwear customers and a QTM Casual Collection will follow later this year.

The group has tanneries in China and Vietnam; its China facility won the Global Tannery of the Year Award in 2013, while its tannery in Vietnam won the regional award for Asia excluding China in 2010. It counts Nike, New Balance and Timberland among its biggest customers.

Source: http://leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=141771

Korean handbag manufacturer Simone claims to be the largest producer of luxury leather goods in the world.

The Seoul-based company is a distributor of luxury leather goods in the Korean market for a number of high-end global brands, but it also makes plenty of products of its own.

Speaking at the 2016 Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Seoul towards the end of April, Simone director Joowon Park claimed that her company makes 20 million handbags per year and that its workforce has a combined total of 3,500 years of experience. It also runs a museum in the South Korean capital dedicated to handbags.

Parent group, Simone Holdings, is reported to be in the process of acquiring automotive leather producer GST AutoLeather.

Source: http://leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=141468

Swedish footwear brand Italgente, which offers high-end Italian handmade men’s shoes to discerning consumers in its home country, has won the the right to supply formal footwear to Sweden’s national football team for the 2016 European Championship.

Italgente will supply each member of the Sweden squad with a pair of its Venezia Caffe Oxfords, which the players will wear with suits for formal occasions at the competition. France is hosting the championship, which kicks off on June 9. Sweden’s first match is against the Republic of Ireland in Paris on June 13.

To celebrate the occasion, Italgente ran two special trunk shows in Malmö and Stockholm at the end of May and was able to offer its customers the chance to win tickets for two of Sweden’s warm-up matches. This is the second time the brand has won the right to supply the national team: it also provided formal shoes for the squad at the 2012 European Championship in Poland and Ukraine.

All of Italgente’s shoes are handmade in Montegranaro in Italy’s most famous footwear-making region, Le Marche. The Venezia model uses calf leather, which Italgente sources from either the Tannerie d’Annonay in France or from Ilcea in Italy.

Source: leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=141756

Luxury group Hermès has defended its use of ostrich leather following a publicity stunt at its annual general meeting by a campaign group.

At the the event in Paris on May 31, a representative of an animal rights group spoke about a video showing poor treatment of young ostriches on a farm in South Africa and said the facility supplies exclusively to Hermès. She told French media she had bought one share in the luxury group to allow her to attend the meeting and make this intervention.

In response, Hermès chief executive, Axel Dumas, said: “Let’s stick to the facts. We take full responsibility for the partnerships we have in place with the farms from which we source, but Hermès does not have an exclusive provider of ostrich. We want them to apply best practice and we insist that all of our partners respect not just international regulations, but Hermès regulations, which are much stricter.”

The video in question was uploaded to the internet earlier this year. At that time, Hermès issued a statement explaining that the farm that features does not belong to the luxury group. It said it sources its ostrich leather not from farms but from tanneries. Furthermore, it said these tanneries, “like all of our suppliers” are subject to “careful, permanent checks”.

Source: http://leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=141774

Founded three years ago, after the Rana Plaza garment factory collapsed in Bangladesh killing over 1,100 people on April 24, the Fashion Revolution movement has launched the Fashion Transparency Index in collaboration with Ethical Consumer.

Launched on April 18 to mark the start of Fashion Revolution Week (April 18-24), the first edition includes 40 of the biggest global fashion brands and ranks companies according to the level of transparency in their supply chain. The aim is further transparency, greater consumer and regulatory accountability in the supply chain.

The average score for the 40 brands surveyed by Fashion Revolution is 42% out of 100. Levi Strauss & Co ranks number one with 77%, while luxury brand Chanel holds the last place in the ranking, with 10%, and closely followed by Forever 21, Claire’s Accessories, Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Prada. “This sends a strong signal that luxury brands in particular have much more work to do”, said the movement in a statement.

“Lack of transparency costs lives. It is impossible for companies to make sure human rights are respected and that environmental practices are sound without knowing where their products are made, who is making them and under what conditions. When companies are working in a transparent way, this also implies openness, communication and accountability across the supply chain and with the public”, said Carry Somers, Co-Founder, Fashion Revolution.

Over 80 countries now participate in the movement which takes place on April 24 of each year. The #whomademyclothes hashtag has become widely used on various social media platforms.

Source: http://internationalleathermaker.com/news/fullstory.php/aid/2735/Fashion_Transparency_Index_launched.html

 

Quality, practicality and price – these were the features of products produced by domestic tanners and shoemakers that drew the attention of participants of the 5th international exhibition "Shoesstar" in the Kazakh city of Almaty.

About 20 companies operating in the structure of the Association «Uzbekcharmpoyabzali» represented Uzbekistan at this event. It is worth noting that our entrepreneurs have prepared for this event thoroughly. The exposition of Uzbekistan presented a wide range of shoes, ranging from strict classical to easy home. At that, a presentation was prepared to acquaint the specialists of the sphere with the production and export potential of leather and footwear enterprises of Uzbekistan.

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Cutting technology provider Lectra has said that leather car-seat and automotive interior producers are ordering “such high volumes from tanners” that traditional die-cutting systems are “no longer able to keep pace”.

In its newly published annual report for 2015, Lectra said it had taken note of the high-end vehicle market witnessing the strongest growth in the automotive industry. This is significant because high-end vehicles tend to use more leather than regular ones.

Tanners need to transform their production processes and to make “significant productivity gains”, the technology provider said in the report. It added: “Leading tanners need solutions that are more flexible, improve hide use and accelerate time to market.”

In recent comments, Lectra chief executive, Daniel Harari, said the company intends to invest more in developing advanced cutting solutions specifically for leather as part of its latest research and development plan.

He said he believes Lectra is “beginning, after 15 years, to understand leather” and beginning to see the next level of challenges that its customers’ leather-cutting requirements can present. “Our whole idea is to bring intelligence to the cutting room,” the company’s chief executive said.

Source: http://leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=141337

China’s leather-sector exports had a value of $86.1 billion in 2015, a decline of 3.1% year on year. Exports of all types of footwear for the year reached almost 9.9 billion pairs with a value of $51.1 billion, figures that represent falls of 8.1% and 5.1% respectively compared to 2014.

Commenting on these figures, the president of the China Leather Industry Association (CLIA), Su Chaoying, said that although exports were declining, growth in the country’s domestic market was going some way towards compensating.

In answer to a question from World Leather at a media conference on March 31, Mr Su said: “Growth continues, even if at a slower rate than in previous years.” He said CLIA had calculated that the more than 8,000 large producers of leather and finished leather products in China, those turning over at least $3 million per year, had increased their sales by 6.1% in 2015, although he did not give a total sales figure.

“In cities, Chinese consumers are buying, on average, 3.7 pairs of shoes per year each, while in the countryside it’s 1.7 pairs,” Mr Su continued. “Some people still like to buy things overseas but we expect a series of positive new policies from the government, including the lowering of sales tax, to encourage people to buy more in China.”

Source: http://leatherbiz.com/fullitem.aspx?id=141214

Tanzania leather industry faces bleak future as global commodity price slump lowered demand for value added leather products from major importers.

Leather Association of Tanzania (LAT), Executive Secretary, Mr Joram Wakari, said in Dar es Salaam yesterday that leather exports have dropped to less than 5 per cent forcing some players to close down their businesses.

"The situation is worse as very little is being exported due to fall of demand from the most importing countries including China and Pakistan thus leaving most godowns full of packed semi processed leather products," he said.

For example, one leather factory in Shinyanga has closed down operations due to falling demand for semi processed leather products. The situation has not impacted only Tanzania, but also Kenya, Ethiopia and Brazil. He said most business people in the leather industry were frustrated and had incurred heavy losses since when the situation started to surface on the last quarter last year. The governments will also lose substantial revenues from the leather industry.

Source : http://allafrica.com/stories/201607200577.html

The Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Programme will be delivering a new online portal, The ZDHC Chemical Registry, as the next step in its path towards eliminating key chemicals in the global footwear and textile value-chain.

The Chemical Registry will be up and running as from August 2016 and is to include a comprehensive list of chemical products as well as a MRSL conformance assessment for each. It will map products against existing chemical accreditation such as bluesign, GOTS or OEKO-Tex STeP, and provide manufacturers with documentation to determine the level that a chemical product conforms to the ZDHC MRSL.

The data portal draws from experience learned during an extensive pilot conducted in 2015 across China, Taiwan, Pakistan, Scotland and Sri Lanka on behalf of the ZDHC Foundation by ADEC Innovations.

The ZDHC Programme represents 22 apparel and footwear brands leading the path towards eliminating key chemicals in the global value-chain. In 2015, the it released the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) Version 1.1, listing chemical substances banned from intentional use in facilities that process textile materials and trim parts in apparel and footwear including leather.

Earlier this month, the ZDHC Programme released its 2015 Annual Report highlighting its achievements and demonstrating how collaboration by industry leaders is driving new standards in responsible chemical management forward.

Source: http://internationalleathermaker.com/news/fullstory.php/aid/2851/Chemical_Registry_to_guide_leather_and_footwear_producers.html

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Prof. (Dr5) Mwinyikione Mwinyihija, Former Executive Director of ALLPI (2013-2022)